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How to calculate potodds? Beginners Table  | | 
10-06-2006, 04:19 PM
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The available pot odds isn't enough, they have to be compared to your chances of winning. You could just try remembering the odds of winning for a handful of common situations, then anytime you are in doubt and your instinct is saying this is dodgy, just fold. Then look it up in a book and add it your list of remembered odds for next time. | | |
10-06-2006, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacingDog  The available pot odds isn't enough, they have to be compared to your chances of winning. You could just try remembering the odds of winning for a handful of common situations, then anytime you are in doubt and your instinct is saying this is dodgy, just fold. Then look it up in a book and add it your list of remembered odds for next time. |
those are calling implied pot odds, meaning how many chips you can get from your opponent if you make your hand. Most of the time on flush draws your implied pot odds will not be that much because it will be obvious you hit your flush, that is why sometimes mix it up and play that draw different so it dosent seem like you hit your hand. | | |
10-07-2006, 02:22 AM
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For your refrence, these are the pot odds you need with # of outs, to break even, any better price (and implied odds) is profit to call:
18 1.6-1
17 1.7-1
16 1.9-1
15 2.1-1
14 2.2-1
13 2.5-1
12 2.8-1
11 3.2-1
10 3.6-1
09 4.1-1
08 4.75-1
07 5.6-1
06 6.7-1
05 8.2-1
04 10.5-1
03 14.3-1
02 22-1
01 45-1
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10-07-2006, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adaon For your refrence, these are the pot odds you need with # of outs, to break even, any better price (and implied odds) is profit to call:
18 1.6-1
17 1.7-1
16 1.9-1
15 2.1-1
14 2.2-1
13 2.5-1
12 2.8-1
11 3.2-1
10 3.6-1
09 4.1-1
08 4.75-1
07 5.6-1
06 6.7-1
05 8.2-1
04 10.5-1
03 14.3-1
02 22-1
01 45-1 | I'm not really with you there. Do you mean that if you have 9 outs you need atleast 4.1-1 in potodds?
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10-07-2006, 02:20 PM
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 Yeh that's it DJ. 9 outs means you are 4 t0 1 to hit with one card to come.
If the pot is offering you 4 to 1, mathematically you break even over time. This makes the call 'correct' . If you're getting better pot odds than 4 to 1, you'd make a profit over time if you make that call.
Implied odds here means that if you make the call you might expect better pot odds than 4 to 1 at the end of the hand.
e.g You might think that someone has already made a hand. You can imply that if you make your hand, you have them beat AND you can expect a call or raise on the river. You expect a bigger pot if you make your hand.
So you might make a play with less than break even pot odds but the call may be worth it because you can imply a good pay off if you make the hand.
That's the simplest way I can state it - there are others here who I'm sure would explain it better.
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10-07-2006, 02:31 PM
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That is precisely what he means.
That is why chasing an inside str8 is regarded as very bad play (remember A234 and AKQJ are effectively insiders). You will hardly ever get 10.5/1.
That is why chasing an outside str8 (4.75/1) or a flush (4/1) against a big raise is bad play unless there are other callers who bump the pot up. Anything bigger than a 1/3 pot raise messes up your pot odds if there are just the two of you left in.
But a SF or RF draw? Most of the time go for it. As you should be able to see from the list, it takes a really massive bet to mess up your odds.
It also explains what looks like an apparent contradiction, some hands, particularly draws, are classified as fold or bet or raise, but not call. The point being that a big bet or raise introduces the extra possibility of all fold. You are basically playing a semi-bluff as you have no made hand at the time you bet. Making a big re-raise of a big bet is well dodgy though, unless the other guy is over stating his hand you already know he isn't going to lay it down which means you are not getting the all fold possibility which makes a simple bet or raise of a small bet playable.
BTW, nice one Adaon, good of you to take the time to dig it all out and type it up. | | |
10-08-2006, 10:17 PM
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I have it sitting in a text file. I keep a few things like that handy for any time I have to pull them out. Sadly I don't have all my information memorized, so I consult guides I've worked up in order to be sure I'm making the right decision.
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10-09-2006, 02:41 AM
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there are a few guides on pot odds both in the member guides and in the recommended posts section.
In tourneys you have to remember that you want a little more than pot odds to make a call if it seriously affects your tourney stack. Also you have to factor in implied odds and bluff oppertunities (if you dont hit can you steal?)
What i would say though is that whilst adon took in his example 9/45 for a flush draw you should always take 47 with rare exception. What this means is that you treat your opponents cards as being "unknown". There are exceptions. Say if the flop is AC8C4H and your opponent bets and you "know" he has an ace then you could take your draws to a flush as 9/ (52- 3(flop) -2 (your cards) -1 (his totally unknown card which might be a club. This does not affect the percentages too much but often you will find that with bets that you are almost priced in quite often so it is worth getting an extra 2% accuracy.
Pot odds only becomes important if you have a sense what your opponent has. With KCQC on jC5C7H if you put your opponent on AJ and are pretty confident on this then you have kings and queens as outs. If you put him on kk say then you only have your flush cards for outs (and you cannot assume he has no clubs in his hand....)
Finally you also need to factor in the chances of you getting your draw and still being beat (if he has trips say or two pair and catches a FH.
Some sites will show you what the %ages are at each street etc once cards are turned over. This can be pretty helpful as you will get similar situations happening a lot (how does kq compare with aj or 64 with k3 etc etc | | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | | 
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